鼯棲朽梓

斯堪地那維亞都市記遊．第二天
Scandinavian trip. Day 2
スカンジナビアたび．二日目

6月12日（四）晨，抵達斯德哥爾摩阿蘭達機場。首先，當然是過海關。海關只問了我兩個問題，第一是來瑞典的目的，當然是旅遊；第二是在瑞典是否已經有住宿的地方，就把訂房記錄給她看，然後就通關了。從阿蘭達機場到斯德哥爾摩市中心，要搭機場快捷，票假滿貴的，不過18歲以下免費搭乘（爽）。
June 12 (Thu) morning, arriving at Stockholm Arlanda Airport. The first thing to do was, of course, to pass the custom. It only asked me two question. The first one is purpose of entering Sweden, which is of course traveling. The other one is if I have found accommodation for the whole peirod of staying in Stockholm. I simply showed her my reservation record, and I passed. To get to Stockholm city center from the airport, one has to take the airport express train, ticket of which is quite expensive. But, those who are under 18 are free of charge (happy).
6月12日（木）朝、ストックホルム．アーランダ空港。まず、海関だ。海関は質問をふたつだけ問った。スウェーデンに来る目的とスウェーデンに下宿があるかどうか。ホステルの予約レシートを見せて、スムーズにスウェーデンに入ったんだ。空港からストックホルムまで空港急行に乗らなきゃ。高いけど、まだ18歳のは無料だ（笑）。
 

只要20餘分鐘，便到達斯德哥爾摩中央車站。這裡也是日後轉乘捷運最方便的地方之一。
It takes only 20 minutes to get to central station. Here, it will become one of the most used and convenience transfer stations.
20分だけをかけると、ストックホルム中央駅に来た。ここも一番便利な乗り換える場所。
 

在瑞典過馬路，紅綠燈要自己按，雖然滿多人就直接闖，不久我也入境隨俗（笑）。
To cross a street, one has to press the button for traffic light. Since most of the locals just simply go across roads regardlessly, I, well, do as the Romans do in Rome.
道路を横断したいと、そのボタンを押すこと。でも、直接に横断する地元民がたくさんあるから、私もそうするようになった（笑）
 

這邊街景真的是美得誇張。第一張是火車站附近的街道，對面是市政廳。第二張則只不過是一般的街道，還不是在什麼有名的觀光景點旁。
The street here is unbelievablly beautiful. The first picture shows some streets nearby. It is City Hall on the opposite side. The second one is no famous tourist attraction but simply some everyday street.
ここは本当に綺麗だなあ。一番の写真、駅の近くの道と向こう側の市役所だ。次は特別なスポットでなく普通の道だけだ。
   

在這邊交通和門票都很貴，不過這裡大部分的城市都會有旅遊卡可以購買，能夠無限次使用大眾交通運輸，各處門票也免費或是打折。以下這張就是斯德哥爾摩五日卡（Stockholm Card）。
Although tickets for transportation or entrance are expensive, most cities in Nordic region provide so-called city card or city pass to purchase. It allows its owner to have unlimeted access to any public transportation and free or discounted admission to a long list of tourist attraction. The picture shows a 5-day Stockholm Card.
ここにはチッケトが高いが、シーティカードというものを買えるよ。このカードで公共交通を無料．無制限に使え、多くのスポットも無料．割引に入れる。写真は五日のストックホルム．カードだ
 

首先，第一個景點便是斯德哥爾摩市政廳（Stockholm City Hall）。斯德哥爾摩市政廳建於20世紀初，由建築師拉格納．厄斯特貝里（Ragnar Östberg）設計。稱不上是什麼老舊的建築，特別是在古蹟城堡滿地都是的歐洲，但深受義大利文藝復興式建築的影響，乍看之下卻似有上百年的歷史。第一張是市政廳的中庭，第二張則是市政廳高塔，塔上三枚皇冠是斯德哥爾摩的象徵圖案。
The first place I went was Stockholm City Hall. It is built in early 20th century by Ragnar Östberg. It can't be regard as an old building, easpecially in Europe where old buildings and castles are everywhere. But under Renaissant influence, it seemed to be much older than it really is. The first picture is its courtyard. The second one is its tower, on which installed the symbol of Stockholm, three crowns.
最初に行った場所は市役所だ。市役所はRagnar Östbergにより、20世紀初に建てられた。古い建物と言い切れない、特に史跡のいっぱいあるヨーロッパに。しかし、イタリア．ルネッサンスのイメージを取り入れ、何百年の歴史のようなあ。1番は庭だ。2番は三つの王冠という都市のシンボルがあるタワーだ。
    

河畔上的庭院。看起來太陽雖大，其實風很強，還是會有點冷，不時的還會飄下小雨。
This is the backyard of City Hall. The sun seemed strong, but so were the wind, making it still a little bit cold. Time to time, it rains a little as well.
川側にある裏庭だ。太陽は強そうだけど、実に風も。ちょっと寒く、時々に細かい雨が降る。
 

憑卡可以免費參加一次市政廳導覽，於是我就參加了英語的場次，但這裡也有中文的場次，而且有繁體中文的解說資料。首先進入的是藍廳，雖然原先計畫要蓋成藍色的，才取這個名字，但最後卻變成滿滿紅磚砌成的建築。藍廳採用天然照明，最上面一排是玻璃，而玻璃之上的屋頂是帆布。這裡也是諾貝爾晚宴舉行的場所。第一張是藍廳抬頭所能見到的樣貌，第二張則是位在藍廳的樓梯旁牆上的星星，據說要看著這顆星星走下樓梯，姿勢才會最優雅。
With Stockholm Card, one can attend guided tour for free, so I joined one in English. The first place entered, though red, is called Blue Hall, which got its name because it was originally planned to be blue. The top layer is made of glass, on which the roof is canvas. This is also where Nodel Prize banquet takes place every year. The first picture is the roof of Blue Hall. The second one shows a star, which you should looked at if you want to be as graceful as possible while going down the stairs.
カードでガイド付きツアーに無料し、英語のに参加した。中国語か日本語のもある。初めて入るのはブルーホールだ。青いと言われる理由は、最初に青くする予定だ。しかし、赤くなってしまった。ガラスの構造で自然光に照らされ、上にカンバスで覆われる。ここは毎年ノーベル賞の祝賀会場となる。1番の写真は首を上げると。2番のは壁にある星だ。この星を見かけないと、優雅に階段を歩けないという。
   

市議會大廳，抬頭可見模仿維京時代房屋的設計。
This is City Council Hall, roof of which is designed according to Viking tradition.
市議会室。ヴァイキングのようなデザインだ。
 

宴會廳前有個橢圓形的小房間，牆上掛著17世紀法國的紡織品。這裡在每週六下午都有舉行公證結婚，因為太受歡迎，整個過程至多三分鐘。
A small oval room before another banquet room. On the wall are 17th century France textile. The room offers civil marriage every Saturday afternoon, but since it is so popular that the whole process could not exceed 3 minutes.
鏡の間の前にある楕円形の部屋。壁には17世紀フランスの織物に飾られた。毎週の土曜日に午後から結婚式が行われ、人気が大変あって三分間をかけると限界だ。
 

宴會廳有兩邊，一邊是窗，可見到湖畔美景與神畫雕刻；另一邊則是王子畫廊，讓對向的宴客也能看到相同的景致。神話內容我有聽沒有懂，另外被大家圍著的那位就是這趟的解說員。
In the banquet room, on one side are windows with extraordinary scenery and mythological relif; while on the other side are painted by one of Swedish princes, so guests from the opposite side may enjoy the same scenery.
鏡の間とはこの側に窓はあるままで、その側に王子の絵はある。絵は向こう側に座る客も同じの景色が見えるように。神話についたのは全然理解しなかったから、残念だなあ。
   

最後是金廳，牆上滿是金碧輝煌的馬賽克藝術品。這些是真正的黃金！當然很薄，不過是真金。一樣，這些傳說故事我有聽沒聽懂，不過底部最大幅的那張象徵著瑞典居於歐洲東西兩方之間，促成和平的角色（瑞典二戰時為中立國，並大量接受猶太難民）。
Last but not least, Golden Hall. It is decorated with mosaic artwork, which are all consisted of real gold! I couldn't understand any of the myth stories, but I do know the one on the very far end represents the peace-promoting role Sweden plays between Eastern and Western Europe.
最後はゴールデンホールだ。この金色の芸術作品は本当な金だ。ま...まだ理解できないなあ、神話は。でも、3番の写真にいるのは、スウェーデンがヨーロッパのセンターに平和の役割とするシンボルだ。
     

中午到街上亂逛，這邊餐廳的價位數字跟臺灣一樣，不用懷疑，只是貨幣單位有變而已（註：1瑞典克朗SEK約為4.5新台幣TWD）。到處都是中國餐廳和中國觀光客啊...世界要被中國人占領了。不過，相對便宜的食物還是有的（大概60~120 SEK）。我找到一家美式漢堡、熱狗小屋，沒有附座位，一盤65 SEK，滿滿的醬料，其實對台灣人來說很容易膩，反而很快就飽了，還能撐過兩餐。
The restaurant here had the exact same number of price as those you can find in Taiwan. In another word, food here is 4~5 times costlier than it is in Taiwan. Chinese restaurant for Chinese tourists are everywhere... The world will soon be dominated by Chinese people. Still, cheap food that cost around 60~120 SEK exists. I found one selling American burgers and hot dogs, no seats, 65 SEK per dish. But for me, it contains too much sauce that makes me feel full pretty easily, and the satiety lasts for the rest of the day.
   

皇家歌劇院（Royal Opera House）的外觀與入口，不過內部在平常是禁止進入的，要參加導覽才能參觀。
The entrance of Royal Opera House. It isn't open for tourists unless it is in a guided tour.
 

下午去了三個博物館，分別是中世紀博物館（The Museum of Medieval Stockholm）、地中海與近東博物館（The Museum of Mediterranean and Near-eastern Antiquities）、舞蹈博物館（The Museum of Dance）。
I went three museums in the afternoon: The Museum of Medieval Stockholm, The Museum of Mediterranean and Near-eastern Antiquities, and The Museum of Dance.

中世紀博物館介紹了斯德哥爾摩的發展過程，第一張是古代建築的模型；第二張是教堂玻璃飾品在地上的映影；第三張是靈異的小女孩（？）。
Medieval Msueum introduced the development of Stockholm. The first picture is some models of what Stockholm looks like in the past. The second one is the reflection of some crystal glass from a church. The last one is a little girl ghost?
 

另外，碰巧它的特展是關於刑罰的演進。第一張是呃...我就不從正面拍了，自己意會那是怎樣痛苦的刑罰；第二張是過去今日大比較的其中一項，都滿好笑的。
The special exhibition was about the changing of capital punishment. The first one, well, please try to guess what is happening. The second one is pretty funny actually.
 

地中海近東博物館展出的內容，多半是賽普勒斯、希臘、羅馬以及埃及的文物。博物館滿小的，展物的詳細請查歷史課本吧（奔）。
The Antiquities Museum is mostly about Cyprus, Greece, Rome and Egypt. It is not big at all, and for details please see to your history textbook.
 

本來是因為時間太多，才去看舞到博物館的，畢竟芭蕾舞什麼的與我氣質可不合。但卻在它的地下室感到無限驚奇。地下室的氣氛超極詭異，燈光昏暗、音樂陰森，不時的又能聽見展示的頭顱說話（雖然大部分是瑞典語我聽不懂），感覺跟芭蕾舞扯不上邊。這展覽是根據俄羅斯大舞蹈家瓦斯拉夫．尼金斯基（Vaslav Nijinsky）的日記內容布置而成。尼金斯基受到現實生活的種種挫折，加上藝術過於前衛、不為時代接受，最終發瘋。每樣東西都有其象徵意義，不過他的日記我還沒看完就是了。
I didn't want to go to Dance Museum since I am no fan of Ballet, but I was surprised by what I have seen in its basement exhibition. The atmosphere there was like a haunted house. Those skulls spoke, no joking, but in Swedin mainly. This seems to have no relation with Ballet, but it is actually constructed according to the diary of Russian dancer and artist Vaslav Nijinsky, who went insane after experiencing many difficulties in his life. Every objects in this room had a meaning, but I haven't yet finish reading his diary.
 

然後，過了那個神奇屋，就變成這些超級和平典雅的展示（笑）。
And after that magic room, you will see this (laugh).
 

傍晚，去搭了這邊的觀光船（canal tour 憑卡也是免費），在城市內遍布的水道遊覽。不過說是傍晚，是用台灣的時間來看，這邊緯度高，在夏天等太陽下山都已經快明天了。
Later, I went to a canal tour, which is also covered by Stockholm Card.

搭船的位置就在市政廳旁邊。過去的時候，中途在一家飯店前被警察攔截下來，本來以為是飯店內有殺人魔在大屠殺（又不是挪威），卻說是首相要出來，得封街。運氣真好（苦笑），不過船票訂好了，看看應該是船比瞻仰首相容貌重要吧（喂），便繞路離開了。
The place where the canal departed was next to City Hall. However, I was blocked by some police in front of a hotel. I thought it might be some serial murderer inside, but it turned out it was the prime minister. But I have no time to spare here, so I find other route to the canal. Canal tour is much more important than a prime minister, isn't it?

途中又看到一卡車接著一卡車的，載著一群群的學生，沿街狂歡瀝酒。後來才知道這是北歐的傳統，在高中畢業後，以班為單位，乘坐卡車到每個人家中開趴、沿街狂歡。
Then, I saw truck after truck, filled with students doing some party stuff in it. This is a Nordic tradition. After graduation of high school, a class will rent a truck and go party in everyone's house and on the way.
 

船上看到的景色有多漂亮，大概要自己體驗一次才知道，用文字實在表達不出來。這些大部分是高級住宅，有些是歷史建築。
It is not possible to describe how awesome the scenery was with language, so you have to see it with your own eyes. These are either mansions or historic buildings.
 

不過，歐洲塗鴉也是隨處可見，甚至在一些意想不到、根本不可能可以觸碰得到的地方。
In Europe, graffities are everywhere, even in the most impossible place to reach.
 

最後附上兩張這邊美麗的雲景照，今天就結束了。有點懶得繼續附英文跟日文了，外國的朋友抱歉啦（踹）。
I am too lazy to put English translation, please forgive me.
僕はまだ自由に日本語を使えるところまでいっていなくて、いま日本語に翻訳したくない。ごめんなさい。